The Gulf Crossing

Probably the last major hurdle on our Great Loop adventure is the open water crossing of the Gulf of Mexico. Depending on what point you depart from and what route is chosen, determines how long a distance must be covered and where you make landfall. For a boat of ITHAKA's size and draft, the preferred option is to do the crossing in one leg, crossing from either Apalachicola or Carrabelle directly to Tarpon Springs or Clearwater.

Our initial plan was to stage out of Carrabelle and cross directly to Clearwater, with the idea of finding a "buddy boat" that would travel at 10-12 mph to match the speed we intended to travel at. If we could not find that buddy boat, we planned to pass Twelve Stones and the group they were traveling with at 8 mph, knowing they were behind us on the same track and would be within radio range if we needed assistance. All the multiple forecasts we surveyed indicated that there would be a two day window on December 6 & 7 to cross safely, and that if we did not go then it would be another week before another one opened. The group of Loopers before us waited two and a half weeks before the weather was safe enough to cross. A "safe" window is considered to be winds 10 mph or less and seas less than 2 feet, with winds out of the North or Northwest. These conditions are hard to find during the winter months on the Gulf, which is what makes this crossing such an obstacle.

This is what the dock looked like the day before we were to move from Apalachicola to Carrabelle.

This is what it looked like the next day, so we changed our plans to stay at Apalachicola and depart from there instead of going to Carrabelle. The only problem with that plan was that December 6, the day of our departure, it looked the same way. The slow boat group decided to head out into the fog at 1100 while we waited until 1 PM to start out, hoping the fog would lift by then. At 1 o'clock, the slow boats were still in heavy fog but indicated it was showing signs of lifting, so we slipped our lines and headed for East Pass, just west of Dog Island, 28 miles away and the pass into the Gulf of Mexico. For the next two hours we proceeded along the ICW with visibility of less than 1/8 mile, sounding our fog horn as we went.

Finally, just before reaching East Pass and the open Gulf, the skies cleared and we powered up to catch and pass the group that was two hours in front of us.

Our luck and good weather did not last!!! Less than an hour after leaving East Pass, the fog rolled back in as thick as ever. Since the water was relatively flat and we had hopes the fog would lift the further off shore we proceeded, we continued on. After running at 12 mph for two hours, we caught up with the slower boats a half hour after sunset, still in HEAVY FOG! With no signs of the fog lifting and darkness settling in around us, we made the decision to fall in with the five boats traveling as a group and just settle in for a long, long night of "flying on instruments", or in this case "boating on instruments"! The five boats we traveled with were TWELVE STONES, with Russ and Elaine Sturm and Sea Dog Ike; ENDEAVOR, with John and his "crossing friend" Ken; AKASHA, with Clarke and Rosie Gillespie; PURA VIDA, with Steve and Sheli Sterk, and DREAM FEVER, with Andy and Cathy Robinson.

Sara at the helm as we were running fast to catch up with the five boats we know are out there in front of us because we see them on our radar. We just haven't spotted them with our naked eye yet!

Nighttime at the helm. Sara and I swapped out every couple of hours so the one not driving could try and catch a few zzzz's.

The Chartplotter, radar and AIS worked flawlessly all night.

The view out the front window, with the stern light of AKASHA visible 1/16 of a mile in front of us. If we let the distance increase beyond this, we would lose sight of them and have to catch back up on radar until we could spot their light again.

The morning finally dawned at 0710 while the fog lifted to reveal cloudy skies, winds increasing to 20 mph and seas increasing to 2 to 3 feet. At least the sun was not in our eyes and we could see the numerous crab pots as we drew closer to Clearwater.

PURA VIDA making her way in the Following Seas.

The Crossing is done!!! Time to celebrate!

After traveling 198 miles in 22 hours and 15 minutes, averaging 8.9 mph while traveling 18 of those 22+ hours in heavy fog, and being awake for thirty six hours, Sara and I slept for twelve hours then met up with most of the group at Cooters Restaurant Bar and Grill. All were present except for John's friend Ken, who had to get back to work. (He only came to help John cross). DREAM FEVER was not in attendance since they broke off early and went into Tarpon Springs.

Sara says, SHE WILL NEVER CROSS THE GULF AGAIN, IN A BOAT, AT NIGHT, IN THE FOG!!!